Tuesday, May 14, 2013

How to: Read a Fashion Pattern

I had a request for a blog post on this topic and at first i thought... would that really be that helpful? I quickly realized YES when i thought back to when i was learning how to sew. When i didn't have my mom or my aunt right there telling and showing me each step, reading a pattern was definitely one of the greatest sources of stress that accompanied sewing. Now i don't usually read instructions anymore, but sometimes i still do! For the most part, i dont need to read them because i've done most things many times, and i know how to put a garment together. The reason they are there is to HELP YOU LEARN. If you are a beginner, reading the instructions is SO important. Even if you aren't a beginner, but you are doing something you haven't ever done before reading the instructions is important. Instructions are put together by the company to show you the proper technical way to construct a garment. If you are learning to sew on your own this is probably one of the best ways for you to not be led astray into the "i'll just make it up as i go.." mentality. That is NOT a good way to learn, and you will end up with some really really bad sewing habits that will be hard to break. Better to start off learning the right way.
When you are buying a fashion pattern, you might think "oh, i'm a size 8 dress.. so i will get the 6,8,10,12.. pattern" and you would probably end up with a dress that was much too small if you made the 8. the thing with pattern sizing is you can't think of them like clothing sizes, because generally, they are not. when i go to a store i might be a size 6 or 8 dress, but generally i am more of a 10 or 12, maybe even a 14 in pattern sizing. patterns have a sizing chart on the back that include simple measurements like bust, waist, and hips. if you have these measurements memorized, or if you are like me and have a measuring tape in your purse at all times, you can find the right pattern size while you are still at the store. Look at the back of these patterns for example:

                          
The pattern on the left is for an apron and the meaurements are a little more general than you would find in something more fitted, but for example, i would want to make the size medium for me (14-16), and if i wanted to make the full apron i would then need 2 1/4 yards of fabric. The pattern on the right is for simple pajama top and pants. This pattern is actually unisex, and the size chart was actually on the flap... that i didn't get a picture of, but it says i would be a size medium. As you follow the medium sizing down vertically you see how much fabric you need for the different widths of fabric. Your fabric should say the widths on the end of the bolt at the store, but if you can't find it, ask someone, or get your measuring tape out of your purse... haha. Sizing is very important for more than just fit, but for choosing and buying fabric as well. The back of the pattern will tell you how much yardage you need for each size, and fabric withs. The top back of the pattern will also give you fabric suggestions. Choosing the right fabric for the project can mean the difference between failure and success. This is something SO important that i tell my kids in the Costume Shop all the time. If you choose a silky, flowy,  or "woodgy" fabric (woodgy is a term than we use to describe fabric that is very difficult to work with. It slides and moves when you try to cut it. It's difficult to keep doubled up, and is nearly impossible to keep something like stripes or plaids straight on. It can make a simple project very advanced.) If you choose a fabric that is difficult to work with, you could be an extremely skilled seamstress and still end up with a less than perfect end-product. I like to recommend things like cottons, flannels, and other non-stretchy or non-woodgy woven fabrics. knits can be really difficult to work with as you either need a good serger, or some products like a ball point needle, double needle, etc. Use the fabric suggestions that are on the back of your pattern to increase your success rate. 
These are just some thoughts i have had as i have worked with friends, students, and co-workers who were learning. Using a fashion pattern should be something that increases your confidence as a seamstress so don't let it scare you! Remember, if you ever have any questions about sewing/fashion e-mail me, or comment! I want you to succeed. I want you to build your sewing confidence! Now head to your local fabric store!

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