Magic Hem!

I have a mentor, Louella, who is amazing. She has taught me all kinds of things. Things that have made  me a much better seamstress. One of those things that just makes me feel like i really know what I'm doing, and significantly lowered my stress-level when working with fabrics like chiffon, is the Magic Hem (aptly named). I search the Internet for sewing tips and stuff... because I'm like that, and i found a variation of the magic hem that i think actually improves it, so i will show you (shhh don't tell Louella i said that!) but really though. In building a dressing gown for Drowsy Chaperone i took pictures of the process. (p.s. this dressing gown is making me throw internal fits at the designer). here is the process. now you can hem chiffon like a pro!

First step: set your machine to like a 1.5 or 2 stitch length (tiny tiny!) and stitch along the finished edge line. I leave 1/4 inch seam allowance so that when i stitch this part i can just use the edge of the presser foot for the SA (seam allowance). 

See! Super tiny. This would be the worst to un-pick!

Second Step: fold along the stitching line so that the edge is what you just stitched, and the SA is folded to the back side of your fabric. 

Third Step: set your machine to a small zig-zag stitch. mine was like... a 2 and a 2 (length and width), but you can test out to see if you want different. You want it small and close together, but not too small. 

Now stitch along the folded edge! I keep the folded edge right in line with the center of my presser foot, where the needle would normally be stitching on a straight stitch, but since it's on zig-zag, your needle will be going right on either side. 

This picture better demonstrates what i was talking about. I'm still learning about macro settings on my camera... 

The last step i didn't really get a picture of, because it's my favorite part, and i got a little excited! Turn your fabric to the back side where you have that little flap of fabric that you folded over, and get out your sharpest fabric scissors! Trim off the excess as close to the zig-zag as you can get without cutting through any of the stitches. You can see in the picture above how it looks when you are finished. beautiful!! You might add a touch of Fray-Check of you are having an especially fray-tastic fabric (but i don't)

 Go Magic Hem your little heart out. I know i did. FYI i had to cut and re-hem all that i did in these pictures... gah! Hours wasted. Indecisive designers make me murderous!!  But for reals... everyone will think you are amazing. My boss for the summer thinks i'm brilliant because i do this hem and is having me teach her.